Peak-to-Peak Byway

The Peak-to-Peak Byway runs from Black Hawk to Estes Park and is hands down one of my favorite drives in Colorado. It is a calm drive with gorgeous views, but there are also multiple places you can pull off and experience something new and unique.

In this guide I will cover a lot of different activities and stops located along the Peak-to-Peak Byway, but don’t feel like you have to do them all. I will show you a drive you can do in an afternoon, with enough stops to make it a week-long trip if you wanted. So feel free to read every word of this guide or just skim through and find your favorites.

Table of Contents

The City of Black Hawk

Golden Gate Canyon State Park

Moffat Tunnel

Nederland

Allenspark

Estes Park

If you are starting this drive from Denver and have some extra time, I highly recommend making your way to Black Hawk by weaving through Clear Creek Canyon on US Hwy 6. Along with beautiful canyon views, this route offers multiple pull-offs and trailheads. Be sure to visit the Peak to Plains Trail website for more information on the recreation opportunities available in Clear Creek Canyon, as well as the latest updates on closures and visit guidelines.

City of Black Hawk

At the start of the Peak-to-Peak Byway is the City of Black Hawk, which was established in 1859 during the Colorado Gold Rush. Since 1991, however, it has become known for a gold rush of a different kind, as it now generates over 85% of Colorado’s gaming revenue.1 In addition to the multiple casinos, spas, and resorts, the city of Black Hawk prides itself on its history and devotes a portion of their revenue to restoring and preserving their historic buildings.

In town, Black Hawk doesn’t fall short in the entertainment department. With 25 casinos, multiple restaurants, resorts, and a self-guided sculpture tour, there are so many options to choose from.

If you prefer to enjoy the great outdoors, the city of Black Hawk has some fantastic new hiking and biking trails under way. The Hidden Treasure Trailhead is located right off of CO Hwy 119 just north of Black Hawk. With roughly 13.4 miles of proposed trails, you will want to make sure to return as the trail project continues to develop.2 Personally, I enjoyed hiking along the historic tramway trail which has a beautiful overlook of Black Hawk.

Lastly, my personal recommendation for a quick bite or some coffee would have to be The B & C. It opened its doors in March of 2020, and offers a full range of coffee choices along with deli sandwiches, all-day breakfast, and ice cream; they also have free WiFi if your needs are more tech based. It’s not a full-sized sit-down restaurant, but it is my favorite place to stop in for a sandwich before driving the Peak-to-Peak. It is a true treat to chat while they fix up your order, so make sure to bring your sense of humor with you, because the employees are a quick-witted barrel of laughs.

For more resources on what to do in Black Hawk, check out the links below:

Restaurants

Sculpture Tour

Golden Gate Canyon State Park

Our next stop on the Peak-to-Peak Byway is Golden Gate Canyon State Park. Spread out over more than 12,000 acres, the park has over 40 miles of multiuse trails and some exquisite views3. Golden Gate Canyon SP has quickly become my go-to for hiking, picnicking, or just enjoying nature. For the one million plus annual park visitors, Golden Gate Canyon offers fishingponds, back-country hiking/camping, a designated hunting area, RV/tent campsites, cabins, yurts, and multiple day-hiking options.

There are two parts of the park that I always make a point to see when visiting: driving Mountain Base Road and stopping at Panorama Point. Along Mountain Base Road you will find multiple trailheads for day hikes as well as a few picnic sites with tables. The best part about that drive though is the views, so as you move along the winding road be sure to keep your eyes out for towering cliffs, peaceful valleys, majestic mountains, and various wildlife. As for Panorama Point, I can’t accurately describe it without sounding like “America the Beautiful,” so instead I will just share this picture.

Moffat Tunnel

If you are a history buff who can’t get enough, then you may enjoy seeking out the east portal of the Moffat Tunnel. The tunnel was built between June 1923 and February 1927 with President Coolidge setting off the final blasts via telegraph.4 The first trains passed through Moffat Tunnel in February of 1928. The tunnel is still in use today as an important pass through the Continental Divide for both freight and passenger trains.5 During the construction phase, “camps” were established at both portals. These camps were complete with housing, schools, hospitals, and even recreation facilities; some buildings of which are still visible today.

Important note: The road out to the east portal of Moffat Tunnel is a dirt road with many ruts and dips. While it is possible to make it with a front-wheel drive sedan in good conditions, I would recommend taking a vehicle with AWD or 4×4 and a higher ground clearance to be safe.

Nederland

Nederland is a delightful town that has seen some ups and downs since it was incorporated in 1874. With much of its economy originally centered around the Caribou Mine, its population would rise and fall with the booms and busts of silver and tungsten mining from the late 1800s to the early 1900s.

In the second half of the 20th century, Nederland experienced its latest boom in population which has lasted into the 21st century, as “hippies,” artisans, and musicians moved into the area and cultivated a thriving music and arts scene.6 Between the natural beauty of the landscape and the arts scene, Nederland provides a variety of experiences in which to partake.

One of the more visually striking experiences is Barker Meadow Reservoir. Located less than a mile from downtown Nederland, Barker Meadow Reservoir is a beautiful place to have a picnic after grabbing food from one of the local restaurants. In addition to picnicking, the reservoir also has opportunities for fishing and hiking. As tempting as it may be to jump in, swimming, wading, boating, etc., are unfortunately prohibited, as the reservoir is a water source for the city of Boulder.

The Train Cars Coffee and Yogurt Company is a wonderful spot with a cozy feel and plenty of history. Constructed with three different railcars that were built between 1872 and 19107, it is a very pleasant experience to grab a drink and walk through the cars to see the structure, design, and unique quirks of these history boxes on wheels. In addition to coffee and teas, they offer sandwiches, smoothies, and desserts.

The Carousel of Happiness is an enchanting ride with an inspiring story. This restored 1910 carousel features a 1913 Wurlitzer band organ and 56 hand-carved animals. Scott Harrison, a Vietnam veteran, carved all the animals as a therapeutic project after returning from the war, thus giving it the name Carousel of Happiness, as it helped to restore his joy.

Lastly, Mud Lake is one of my personal favorite places to stop at when visiting Nederland. Just shy of three miles past Nederland, Mud Lake is a serene and peaceful open space with miles of trails for hiking, mountain biking, and equestrian use which include a link to the Caribou Ranch Open Space. The calm water and full forest provide a lovely habitat for a variety of creatures and a plethora of viewing opportunities for naturalists.

Further Resources for your visit to Nederland:

Restaurants

Official Visitor’s Guide

Allenspark

A small town south of Rocky Mountain National Park, Allenspark is worth taking a few minutes to support. The Old Gallery is a local center for arts, visitors, and the community. They have an art gallery featuring 28 local artists, photographers, weavers, quilters, and more. In addition to the art gallery, they also act as a visitor and community center by providing tourist information, public restrooms, a playground, and snack shop, as well as a community closet, classes, and a food bank.

Another unique attraction for the Allenspark area is Saint Catherine’s Chapel, located at the base of Mount Meeker and part of the Camp St. Malo center. Also known as the Chapel on the Rock, it is a lovely bit of stone architecture set against a mountainous backdrop. It is open to visitors, but I would recommend visiting their Facebook page to check for closures, as it is an active Catholic Chapel and is occasionally closed to the public due to weddings and other private events.

Estes Park

Lastly, if you are looking to do all the things, look no further than Estes Park. A tourist hotspot along the Peak-to-Peak, it is not only the perfect basecamp for your adventures into Rocky Mountain National Park, but has an abundance of options when it comes to lodging, restaurants, shops, and more.

Since there is so much to enjoy in Estes Park, allow me to make just a few personal recommendations and I will leave you to explore the rest of Estes Park’s offerings.

First, the shopping scene along Elkhorn Avenue is bountiful! If you are visiting from out of state and want to have your pick of the litter when it comes to souvenirs, Estes will not leave you wanting. Offering everything from shirts, to knickknacks, to salt water taffy, the locally owned shops have a variety of treasures to take home and share with family or friends. If you are like me and not always the biggest fan of crowds, then I recommend taking the river walk that runs along the south side of Elkhorn Avenue. It provides easy access to most of the shops while also offering the serenity of walking along a portion of the Big Thompson River.

Second, and this will come as no surprise: Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP). Consisting of over 415 square miles (1075+ Sq. km), RMNP was the fourth most visited National Park in 2020 boasting 3.3 million visitors even in the midst of a global pandemic.8 It has 124 peaks, 147 lakes, and approximately 355 miles (571 km) of hiking trails.9 To put it plainly, you could spend weeks exploring RMNP’s wildlife and natural landscapes.

There is one experience not to be overlooked and it can only be found at night. Stargazing, specifically astrophotography, is my absolute favorite and the number one reason you will find me in RMNP. Those 124 peaks help to block some of the light pollution and it results in the ability to see countless stars. In late summer you can see the cloudy haze of the Milky-Way Galaxy stretch across the sky and with the right camera settings, you can capture some awe-inspiring photos.

If you are planning on checking out Rocky Mountain National Park, be sure to visit their website for closures and requirements. Since 2020, they have been requiring timed entry permits during the peak season.

Further Resources for Your Visit to Estes Park:

Visit Estes Park

Rocky Mountain NP

History of Estes Park

Lastly, to finish off this Peak-to-Peak adventure, driving back towards I-25 via US Hwy 34 is my favorite option. Weaving its way alongside the Big Thompson River, this route offers some spectacular views, particularly in the late afternoon as the light illuminates the jagged walls of the canyon.

I truly hope as you take the time to explore this beautiful part of Colorado, you experience the same awe and peace that I do each time I go for this drive. It is by far my favorite drive and a go-to whenever I have a few hours. Happy travels, friend!

So… This is 2020?

Wow.

What. A. Year…

I don’t know about all of you, but 2020 has left me speechless at every turn. It feels as though I spend my time oscillating between sadness, outrage, and trying to be grateful for what I do have. My heart aches and has been torn apart by personal tragedy and from all the injustice I have seen in the news. I am livid at the fact that their are still so many people who are blinded by their greed or hatred and behave accordingly, even though so many in our country are struggling. Like I said… Speechless.

I know that I haven’t posted for quite a while. Honestly, I wasn’t sure what to write. Even before Covid-19 hit, my year was a climbing, plummeting, swirling, corkscrew of a roller coaster and I was still trying to get my bearings. It makes me chuckle when I look at my drafts folder on this blog too.

Drafts Folder

Wanting to write on “Accepting Change”, as if I am any good at it. I have always struggled with change, even if I was excited about the changes: Moving in with friends, traveling, going back to school. Every time I would freak out and panic. Crying even though I was happy and excited (in case you didn’t hear it in the text, I just rolled my eyes… at myself). Then in February, I was all ready to write again. Ready to share my plans about visiting Canada and reminiscing about the summer I got to spend up north 9 years ago. I was glowing with the prospect! I sent in my passport for renewal, calculated the driving hours, planned all the places I wanted to visit. I was positive that everything would blow over in a couple of months and I could still have the summer vacation that I wanted. Well, the US government still has my passport and I am sure you can guess the rest with regards to how my summer actually went.

Alas, I am still blessed. I have a job, a home, food, a car, and family/friends who care about and love me. I have still gotten to do some great things. I got to go to Texas for the first time and went to a beach on the gulf. I have taken so many local mountain drives and learned about so many hidden gems here in Colorado. Virus or not, I have gone on adventures, floated on lakes, and basked in the beauty of nature. I have made the most of my summer, chosen to roll with the punches and continued count my blessings.

So my question to you is:

2020 – What will you do with it?

A Night Under the Stars…

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The other day I was having my usual introvert battle between wanting solitude and quiet, and really wanting someone to share it with. Most days, life has a way of being so loud! Street noise, the refrigerator, dogs barking, people talking, laughing, shouting, all of it adding together to create a cacophony that almost never ends. These aren’t bad things either, they all are the audible results of purpose and relationships, which are good to have. Yet as I sit silently amidst the sounds, some days it leaves me feeling… off… or maybe even ostracized, definitely overwhelmed. These are the days I usually go for a long drive where I think that no one will find me. Of course, I live in a fast growing suburb, so what I really mean is that I struggle through traffic for 30-40 minutes striving to find open road. But when I finally do find it, it… is… beautiful! My body and brain are allowed to focus on driving while my mind plays through a plethora of thoughts, dreams, plans, etc. It finally has the time to dig up answers to questions like “What should I be doing with my life?” “Am I sure going back to school is a good idea, am I even capable?” “Where should I explore next?” “If I ever found a man, would I even want to get married?” “Who keeps unplugging my toothbrush charger and why?!” Sadly, yes, my mind will ask all those questions in the span of 2 minutes, with barely enough time to answer. Thankfully, this decompression of thoughts, is one of my favorite aspects of long drives.

This night in particular though, I had a specific purpose. Not to thoroughly think through every part of my life, but rather to practice astrophotography. However, one part of my life insisted on being thought through; the part that wanted someone with whom to share the experience. Most of the drive out I couldn’t keep from thinking how nice it would be to have someone sitting in the front seat. Not talking just to fill the silence, or fiddling with their phone, but rather sitting there, content to just be… with me. Now this kind thought, I tend to attribute to the part of me that watches way too much Hallmark Channel. Don’t worry, I realize that this idea could probably never exist in reality. That if I ever did find a man, he would be less likely to contentedly ride along in silence and more likely be the one unplugging my toothbrush! All the same, this sets the stage for why I was left feeling so fortunate this night.

When I finally made it to Rocky Mountain National Park outside of Estes Park in Colorado, got out of my car, and started setting up my gear, I couldn’t help but wish there was someone there to guard against the wild animals. Quickly followed by the realization that I need to get over irrational fears just as much as I need to move past unrealistic dreams (visualize a Sheldon Cooper-esque eye roll here). Then, suddenly, what happens to cross my path but… A BEAR…

Just kidding.

Actually, a really nice couple from Kentucky. They were also out to photograph the stars. Honestly, part of what made my night so great was the fact that even though none of my friends could go with me that night, almost every time I stopped, I got to meet new, friendly people who were like minded and out to enjoy the stars. I also found it interesting that for the most part, those people stopped because I already had, because we all had those same concerns about wild animals and a shared passion for seeing (and in some cases capturing) the stars. That night was such a blessing because not only did I get some photos of the Milky Way that I am actually pretty proud of, but I also learned that I don’t have to be lonely just because I am alone.  I just have to be open and ready to embrace new people.

Be the change…

Have you ever felt like every person in the news has lost their mind?

Me? I feel that way all the time. It feels like everyday there is a new shooting, an abuse of power, or a terrorist attack. It would appear that the advice is no longer “Don’t talk to strangers,” but now is “Don’t engage a stranger. Don’t talk to them, don’t look at them, don’t even go near them. They’re dangerous.” The saddest part about this advice, is how easy it is to follow.

I fall into it myself. There are days that I don’t want to make eye-contact or smile, let alone talk to people. Ugh! Small talk is the bane of existence for an introvert such as myself. However, in a world devoid of accountability, where hurtful people are emboldened behind keyboards, and good people can be left unaware because they are too engrossed in their smart phones, how could we expect the world to look any different?

Mahatma Gandhi is quoted as saying, “Be the change you want to see in the world.” I agree. We can’t determine someone else’s actions for them. The only person whose actions we have control over, is ourselves. If you want to see some one be kind, encouraging, courteous, or brave. Be those things.

So this weekend, I interacted with a stranger.

Okay, backstory… Lately I have been taking small steps towards traveling solo, just little day adventures, but they have already exposed a good sized fear that I have. What if I get stuck or injured, and really need help? What if I am surrounded by strangers, when what I really need is a trustworthy and compassionate friend? I would hope to find someone willing to help that I could trust not to screw me over. As a result of that desire, I became that person for someone else on Sunday.

While I am waiting in line at “The Summit of Pike’s Peak” (and yes, I said that in an action/announcer esque voice while typing) for the shuttle back to my car, I overhear this guy talking about how he just hiked up the +14,000ft mountain and didn’t know how he was getting back down to his bike at the base. My heart went out to him, first because I have a good friend who… …It would not surprise me if he landed himself in the same situation. And second, because if I had just hiked 7 hours to get to the top (which realistically, I would never do), I would NEED a ride back down. So, I offered, and the really great part is… He was totally nice! I loved getting to drive down the mountain while talking with Matt from Tennessee, who has a Tom Selleck level mustache. Matt, who kept trying to call/text his Mom and take video on his GoPro for her, so she would know where he was. He was a complete sweetheart of person that I never would have met, had I allowed myself to be guided by a generalized fear.

Now, I am not saying to go pick up the next hitchhiker you see. What I am saying, is that it’s important for us to balance our own comfort and security, with actions that are based in compassion. Not everyone is out to hurt us. Sometimes, they are just like us, traveling solo and in need of a friend.

A dinner alone…

Tiny lanterns light the room like firelight while music and conversations give the room a warm and cozy atmosphere. Just outside there is a thin path that has been shoveled in the dusting of snow and in the distance people stroll by bundled in coats and scarves while their breath escapes in small misty puffs. Tonight, I am being brave. Usually on my weekend stays at a hotel I would hide away in the room, not speaking to a single soul except the concierge when I checked in. Instead, I am dining alone and writing. Now don’t misunderstand me, I do see the humor in the fact that I feel brave for sitting alone not talking to anyone… Albeit now in a room full of people. As if that is some drastic change from my usual. Nonetheless, it did require the effort of showering and putting on clothes so… There you go, brave.

Also, because I am determined to be open to social interaction tonight (once again, brave), I am not staring into my phone which screams “don’t talk to me.” Instead, I am writing in my journal and notes to friends. It has led to me being here a lot longer than I think the wait staff are accustomed, but I am perfectly happy to surpass expectations. 🤓 It does feel a little strange pouring my heart out onto paper while surrounded by strangers who are completely unaware of my inner thoughts.

2018… What a start?!

I recently had the honor of going to the Philippines. It was beautiful! Going with a group of young adults, all of us focused on serving others, made it easier for me to intentionally travel with the idea that this trip was in no way about me… And it felt great! Not to sound like a job interview coach, but challenges became opportunities (Side note: TSA is a lot more fun when you high-five as many people in line as will let you. 🤓) and all the inconveniences that would ruin my day here in the States (not enough water, no toilet paper, etc.) were normal and nothing to stress out about.

One part of the trip that opened my heart the most was the chance to spend three whole days helping at a youth camp. I fell in love with those kids! So many of them were just so happy and fun! They taught me Tagalog (very little) and hand clapping games, and I got to play, worship, study, and eat with a bunch of kids who always rose to the occasion. Getting to see the change in them, opening up to us as they realized that we really cared about them, was so encouraging. It makes me think about all the friends I have made in the last couple of years, how the ones I have gotten close to almost feel like they are two different people (don’t get offended if you are one of them, keep reading). It’s like the more time I spent with them, got to know them, the more complex, full, and intricate a knowledge I had about them, the more the face value first impression of them paled. They are so much more to me than the paper thin idea I had of them before getting to know them. I hope that is what happened at camp. That the more they got to know us, the fuller an image they got of our character, the less we looked like just pale, rich, fat Americans, and instead became genuine, honest, trustworthy people who care deeply.

Moab…

The pre-trip…

So, here I sit in a tire shop, the no fuss, nerdy lady tucked away in the corner typing into her phone. I have finally realized the undertaking I chose when I decided to write this blog. This is a lovely time that I usually would have filled with Netflix and fast food. Instead, I am being intentional with my time and writing (admittedly, there is still fast food in my bag, so no change there).

It feels exciting getting ready for little trips. Thinking through what clothes are clean, what I have already worn since laundry day, I’m mentally packing my bag. In order to know what to pack, I’m visualizing all the activities I want to do. I have been to Moab before but only as a short stop on a longer trip, so there is a lot excitement about it being the destination. And by golly I want to walk under that darn Fragile Arch that has been so elusive as of yet!

On the trails…

I love the variety of people you can meet when you take the time to make eye contact. Getting to chat with Sue as we walked to the breakfast room of the hotel (She thought her daughter should go to Moab because she loves Jeeps and there are so many in Moab), to being encouraged for the hike by Daniel (He lost over 100 pounds hiking to Delicate Arch every two weeks for the past year), or just taking a break with Nancy (who was waiting for her husband and happens to have a daughter that shares my name), each interaction was different and yet beautiful. I feel that too often we keep our heads down, dig into routines, and use cell phones as eye shields so we don’t have to look around and realize that there are over 7 billion other people in this world. When was the last time you introduced yourself to a stranger? It’s something to think about.